Lawn and yard

The Right Mowing Height for Warm-Season Grass in Georgia

Recommended mowing heights for Bermuda, zoysia, centipede, St. Augustine and tall fescue, plus simple habits for a healthier lawn.

Mowing height is one of the simplest ways to help or hurt a lawn. Cut too low and grass gets stressed, thin and weedy. Cut too high and some grasses get puffy and uneven. The right height depends on your grass type.

Know your grass first

Most west Georgia lawns are warm-season grasses:

• Bermuda. Fine blades, spreads fast, loves full sun. Goes tan in winter.
• Zoysia. Dense, stiff blades, feels thick underfoot. Handles a bit more shade than Bermuda.
• Centipede. Medium blades, light green, slow growing and low maintenance. Doesn't like much fertilizer.
• St. Augustine. Wide, flat blades. Handles some shade. Common in warmer parts of the state.

Some shady yards have tall fescue, a cool-season grass that stays green in winter and struggles in summer heat.

If you're not sure what you have, your county UGA Cooperative Extension office can help identify it.

General mowing height ranges

These are widely used ranges for home lawns mowed with a regular rotary mower. Exact heights vary by variety, mower type and how much shade the lawn gets, so check with your Extension office for advice on your specific grass.

A few notes:

• Bermuda and zoysia can be cut lower with a reel mower, but most home rotary mowers do better at the upper end of the range.
• Centipede does poorly when cut too high or fertilized too much.
• St. Augustine needs a taller cut. Mowing it too short weakens it.
• Tall fescue benefits from going taller in summer to shade its roots and handle heat.
• Shady spots usually do better at the higher end of the range for any grass.

Follow the one-third rule

Never cut off more than one-third of the grass blade in one mowing. If you mow Bermuda at 1.5 inches, mow it before it gets past about 2.25 inches.

Cutting off too much at once shocks the grass, exposes stems that turn brown and gives weeds an opening. If the grass gets away from you, say after a rainy week or a vacation, bring it down in two or three mowings a few days apart.

In peak summer, warm-season grass may need mowing every five to seven days to follow this rule.

Keep the blade sharp

A dull blade tears grass instead of cutting it. Torn tips turn brown and the lawn looks gray or frayed. Torn blades also lose more water and are more open to disease.

Sharpen the blade at least once a season, and more often if you hit sticks, rocks or roots. Red clay and sandy spots wear blades down faster.

Mow at the right time

• Mow dry grass. Wet grass clumps, clogs the mower and leaves an uneven cut. It also tears up soft soil.
• Avoid the hottest part of the day in summer. Late morning after the dew dries, or early evening, is easier on you and the lawn.
• Change your pattern. Mowing in the same direction every time can leave ruts and make grass lean. Switch it up.

Don't scalp in spring

Some people scalp warm-season lawns in early spring to clear dead growth. If you do this, be careful, and never do it to centipede or St. Augustine. For most homeowners, simply mowing at the normal height once the lawn starts greening is safer. Our lawn care calendar covers spring timing.

Leave the clippings

Short clippings fall down between the blades and break down fast. They return nutrients and don't cause thatch. Bag them only if they're clumping on top of the lawn.

Fall mowing

As fall cools things down, warm-season grass slows and eventually goes dormant after hard frosts. Keep mowing at your normal height until growth stops. Don't let a thick layer of leaves sit on the lawn. Our fall leaf cleanup guide has tips.

Let us handle the mowing

If keeping up with summer mowing is too much, we can help. We offer lawn mowing and hedge and shrub trimming across our service area. Text a photo of your yard to (706) 594-5049, or use our free estimate form.